Antarctica: The Zodiac Experience

One of the highlights of this trip is the Zodiacs, the boats that take us from the ship to our land excursions, or to cruise around on the area near our anchor site. I’ve never been on a Zodiac before (I had a lot of ‘firsts’ on this trip - more on that later), and I was super excited to get on the water.

Each Zodiac fits 10 people plus the pilot. The first day at sea we were told what to wear on the Zodiac, and how to safely get in and out of one. It was, at first, quite a daunting process, but we got more efficient as the week went on.

First, what do you wear on the Zodiac? Since being on the water can be quite cold and windy, we’re told to layer up, and carry a dry bag for extra items (and camera), or if we want to shed layers. Many of the Zodiacs were simply a way from getting from ship to shore, which meant that you’ll probably be warm from walking around on land. Other times, we simply did a Zodiac cruise for an hour or more, so it’s best to wear all the layers.

We first get dressed in our cabin:

Bottom: base layer leggings, sock liners, wool socks, fleece pants, waterproof pants

Top: base layer top, mid-weight wool shirt, Quark-issued polar parka with waterproof outer layer

Balaclava, neck gaiter, Smartwool cap. Glove liners, over-gloves (I have polar-rated mittens), hand warmers. Sunglasses or goggles are a good idea, too, as is sunscreen.

After the first time donning all this gear, I kept all my Zodiac clothes in one place so I was able to simply throw on my ‘uniform’ and not forget anything. It seems that you get about 20-30 minute warning for gangway time, so you have to be prepared. Once your excursion team is called to the mud room, it’s a mad dash to get to your boots and life jacket and get in line to board your boat.

The Zodiacs are necessary because there are no ‘ports’ in Antarctica, so you need them to get to shore. Sometimes landing isn’t part of the plan, and in those instances we’re out cruising around the inlet, looking for seals and whales and penguins, and taking in the astonishing landscape from the level of the water. 

The pilots have a keen eye for spotting Antarctic fauna, and we would often speed up to where a whale was sighted, then cut the engine and just watch. Being so close to the hundreds of humpbacks (and pilot whales, and minkes) we saw on this trip is an unforgettable and moving experience.